Meet the workhorse skincare ingredient that rarely shares the same limelight as other acids such as salicylic and glycolic
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Take a look at the ingredients list of products in your bathroom shelf; chances are some of them will be laced with salicylic or glycolic acid. What they’re less likely to contain is azelaic acid to the chagrin of dermatologists who swear by its frontline response to multiple skin concerns.
What is azelaic acid?
Azelaic acid is a dicarboxylic acid. It’s produced naturally by yeast that lives on healthy skin. For the purposes of skincare, it’s made from grains such as barley, wheat and rye.
What are the benefits of azelaic acid for your skin?
Normally salicylic is the hero ingredient for exterminating blackheads and glycolic acid is hailed as a solution for hyperpigmentation. But that’s also where azelaic acid can swoop in. With its antimicrobial, antioxidant and anti-inflammatory properties, azelaic acid effectively treats conditions such as acne, rosacea, sensitivity and an uneven skin tone.
Dabbed onto skin, azelaic acid has the same effect as a gentle, leave-on exfoliant by speeding up cell turnover, unclogging pores and refining the skin’s surface. “Azelaic acid is a much milder exfoliator than other acids while still being among the most effective,” says Patrik Lernberger, founder of Lernberger Staffing skincare.
Secondly, research has proven that azelaic acid can also treat hyperpigmentation and sun damage. One study has even found that azelaic acid blocks the enzyme tyrosinase, which causes the dark patches to appear on the skin’s surface and acne scars to linger.
Then there’s its anti-inflammatory effects. “Azelaic acid is useful for taking down redness in reactive or acne-prone skin, especially when used in combination with niacinamide,” says Lernberger, who has made azelaic acid the key active in the brand’s best-selling Multi Correcting Cream. Likewise, the Acticlear Gel by Elixir Cosmeceuticals contains azelaic acid to address a whole host of skin conditions, from blackheads to rosacea.
What skin types benefit most from using azelaic acid?
Despite having the word ‘acid’ in its name, azelaic acid is gentle on the skin, meaning it’s tolerable for all skin types. “But those who will benefit most from incorporating it into their routine twice a day suffer from skin redness, breakouts and hyperpigmentation,” says Lernberger.
Related: How to calm skin redness
How should you use azelaic acid?
Azelaic acid can be prescribed in two concentrations: 15 per cent (Finacea) and 20 per cent (Skinoren). There are also over-the-counter creams and gels at lower concentrations, which a study published in the Journal of Medical Sciences revealed still serve up excellent results. All 40 participants who used a 10 per cent gel saw their mild to moderate acne improve after just eight weeks. Lernberger concurs: “We formulated the Multi Correcting Cream at 10 per cent as it’s the sweet spot dose for keeping the skin barrier calm.”
How to use azelaic acid?
“In the beginning, you may experience a little dryness so it’s a good idea to slowly introduce the ingredient and allow your skin can acclimatise,” says Lernberger. “Start using it every night, then after two weeks build it into your morning routine as well, applied underneath moisturiser.”
As with all acids, do a patch test first, especially if you have sensitive skin, and always wear SPF during the day.
