In one Vogue Scandinavia editor’s opinion, they are the best black ankle boot there ever was
Most shoes that reach icon status really make a statement: the Saint Laurent Tribute sandal, the Gucci Princetown slipper (with lamb, natch), the Valentino Rockstud. But there is one humble shoe that really made its mark by not saying very much at all. One glorious boot that captured the hearts and wallets of the fashion industry and beyond. I am speaking, of course, of the Acne Studios Pistol Boot, the leather ankle boot that had an indelible impact on my wardrobe, possibly my life. May it rest in peace.
The magic of the Pistol lies in its outrageous, borderline addictive, wearability. Sure, it is a nice enough looking boot, with its supple calf leather and stacked wooden heel, the elongated round toe lending a cowboy-lite aesthetic. But the devil is in the details. The extended leather pull tab, in addition to making the boot distinctive, renders it remarkably easy to slip on and off. The ankle is just a little bit roomy, perfect for tucking in skinny jeans (as was the style when I purchased my first pair in the late aughts) or for wearing under a pair of flares (as was the style when I purchased my fourth pair just a couple years ago). In fact, they go with just about everything — their Western finesse lends itself to prairie dresses and denim shorts, slacks and cocktail dresses. I rang in New Years 2011 wearing my Pistols with a silver sequin flapper number, a look directly inspired by paparazzi pictures of Kate Moss.
Photo: Benjamin Tarp
Perhaps most importantly, the Pistol is criminally comfortable. This is not to say that it is comfortable “for an attractive boot with a bit of a heel.” It is comfortable, full stop. I could walk a full day in my Pistol boots without breaking a sweat. I could attend a cocktail event at 6pm, wind up dancing the night away until 4 and hardly notice I was wearing them. Eventually, every time I’d leave my apartment I’d consider wearing something else. “Those box-fresh Balmain strappy sandals would really go better with this outfit,” I’d say to myself (yes, the ones with all the zippers). But then the moment would pass, I’d grab my trusty Pistols, which sat ragged by the door, and head out knowing that even if the evening lasted through sunup, I would be ready.
The ubiquitousness of the Pistol from the early 2000s to about 2012 cannot be overstated. Influencers (back when they were called “fashion bloggers”), A-list celebrities, my mother’s friends in Toronto — seemingly everyone had a pair. Alexa Chung, Michelle Williams and Clemence Poesy are just a few of the Best Dressed List regulars who swore by the Pistol. The boot was the very epitome of model-off-duty-style in the industry-shaking Tommy Ton era. Here in Scandinavia, the impact was tenfold. During Stockholm or Copenhagen Fashion Week between 2006 and 2010 seemingly everyone was wearing Pistols - just check those early street style galleries.
Photo: Getty
Photo: Josephine Dahlberg
Photo: Getty
Though they are now Sweden’s heaviest hitter at Paris Fashion Week, Acne Studios was ostensibly a denim enterprise at the time that Jonny Johansson, the brand’s enigmatic creative director, introduced the world to the unassuming Pistol. The instantly recognisable, impossibly popular boot singlehandedly catapulted Acne Studios to something more. Having a boot that could stand toe-to-toe with offerings from more established fashion houses like Saint Laurent (then Yves Saint Laurent) and Celine (then Céline) graduated Acne Studios into a new weight class on the international fashion stage.
These days, the Pistol is no longer on Acne Studio’s roster - it was removed from their website in 2018. As the brand solidifies its position among the major international houses, it continues to explore more experimental themes and silhouettes. My most recently purchased pair of Pistol boots (the rest found their way to the trash bin once I wore through the soles) are in rough shape - the left leather pull tab has come right off and zipping up the shoe requires a pair of pliers. I haven’t worn them in over a year. But maybe I’ll take them for a spin the next time I feel like dancing until 4am.
Acne Studios brings back the Pistol (please Johansson, I beg of you).