One of Norway’s oldest names in knitwear is expanding its horizons with the launch of O.A.D.. We speak to founder and creative director Maria Lilly Flakk about bringing a refined Norwegian spirit to a global audience
It was 1853, on the weather-beaten coastline of Western Norway, when Devold’s visionary founder Ole Andreas Devold began producing woollen garments, primarily for the fishermen of the area. 170 years later, there is a brimming archive at Devold’s headquarters showcasing the history of the brand as the oldest manufacturer of knitted garments in Norway.
This timeless archive is the starting point for O.A.D., the new luxury knitwear brand that pays homage to Devold’s founder both in name and design. Launching in October, the tightly-edited 11 piece unisex collection 'recalls the fjords and forests in every stitch'. It sits firmly at the intersection of beauty and functionality, uniting rugged Norwegian spirit with refined Italian craftsmanship.
One style from the inaugural collection, a navy zip-front sweater named ‘Blaatröiee’, is modelled on one of the very first that Devold ever created, O.A.D.s founder and creator director Maria Lilly Flakk tells me. “Back then, it was knitted so tightly that you would be protected from the weather, from wind and rain out at sea. It has such a cool story and is an important part of our history, however, it wasn’t very soft or comfortable to wear. This new version is still made of 100% Norwegian wool, but we’ve lined it with cashmere at the neckline for added comfort,” Flakk says.
As well as being at the helm of O.A.D, Flakk is also marketing director at Flakk Group, owner of Devold of Norway. Maria and her sister Erika inherited the ownership two years ago, and along with it, the company’s legacy – which shines through in O.A.D’s collaboration with 74 year old Italian designer Olmes Caretti, who has been involved with Devold since 1995 and is behind some of the most iconic sweaters designs. Now, reunited for the new brand venture, Flakk describes him as a “a gentleman” and a “total materials fanatic”.
It's a way for us to look into craftsmanship, and take that very seriously.
Maria Lilly Flakk
“When I started working on this project – it’s been years in the making – Olmes Caretti came up in conversations with the family about how do go about it,” Flakk tells me. “Caretti has so much history with Devold, but also because he is such an expert on knitwear and patterns. He was stoked with the idea and so happy to be involved, and it’s pretty cool to be working with the same man that my parents worked with 30 years ago."
The collaboration is one with a shared love for Devold's heritage at its heart, but there have been some hurdles. "We don't speak the same language all the time," Flakk says, laughing, "there's an interpreter, and we use our hands and our references. It's a really cool collaboration, he's incredible."
The products are made in Italy, using environmentally-conscious production techniques, and with the world’s highest-quality natural fibres, including merino wool, cashmere, mohair, alpaca and Norwegian sheep’s wool. The result is enduring pieces that look as good as they perform, with time-honoured construction and modern appeal.
With Devold of Norway now dominating the world of performance wear, O.A.D. opens up a new category that speaks to the company's roots. "As the sister to Devold, O.A.D. shares both its history and heritage, but offers a more refined aesthetic," Flakk explains. "We wanted to ask, 'what could happen if we went all in on quality and craftsmanship?' 'What if we looked at wool as the most incredible natural fibre that it is, without the restrictions of the category of Devold of Norway is in?' It's a way for us to look into craftsmanship, and take that very seriously."
As part of a broader commitment to sustainability, additional services offered by O.A.D. will include repairs at an artisan’s atelier in Ålesund, Norway, carried out by the team of seamstresses based there, in a step toward a more sustainable manufacturing life cycle. "Each piece should last for generations, as they're natural fibres and easily repaired. We all have knits in our wardrobe from our grandparents, these will last for that long too."
Photo: Lasse Fløde
The launch campaign comprised a homegrown team, including famed Norwegian photographer Lasse Fløde; models Juliane Stensrud and Tore Kristoffersen; and stylist Afaf Ali, shot on location in Norangsdalen, Norway.
The first O.A.D. collection will launch next month, exclusively at OADEVOLD.com.