Fashion / Society

An arctic exploration: Mikko Puttonen takes us on a sartorial journey up north

By Mikko Puttonen

Photo: Lucas Ruska Martin

Finnish Lapland’s nature is nothing short of awe-inspiring. Here, Vogue Scandinavia’s gender fluidity expert explores the frozen landscape while wearing statement ruffles and delicate lace by some of region's best emerging design talents

It is -20°C with an arctic wind blowing relentlessly in my face on top of an icy fell. Swathed in a voluminous ruffled dress, I am not exactly dressed for the occasion. I only have myself to blame for the biting cold with an asymmetrical woollen hat perched on top of my head and patent leather boots on my feet.

Advertisement

Beyond being the stylist and model in this editorial, I am also seemingly a tourist attraction for the skiing centre where we are shooting our first look. I wonder if we finally will make it to the 'Influencers in the wild' Instagram page.

Hat, €230. Jacket, €590. Dress, €875. All Nicklas Skovgaard. Gloves, €150. Acne Studios. Boots, €2 950. Maison Margiela. Photo: Lucas Ruska Martin

The curious onlookers were probably trying to work out why we were there, sporting layered looks in the frozen tundra. My boyfriend Lucas and I headed up north to the Arctic Circle to tell a gender fluid story through his camera lens. An ode to my special bond with Finnish nature. So, we headed to Lapland for two weeks, with six suitcases filled with some of my favourite spring/summer 2022 fashion. To me, Lapland and Finland, in general, is one of the most unique places in the world.

Collared shirt, €580. Gucci. Lace Top, €590. The FNRM. Vest, €1,980. Gucci. Velvet shorts, €650. Gucci. Bag, €3,300. Decorative whip, €1300. Gucci. Boots, €1,590. Gucci. Photo: Lucas Ruska Martin

Headgear with visor and chin rest, €590. Gucci. Earrings, €95. All Blues. . Photo: Lucas Ruska Martin

Visiting my homeland always brings me back to my roots and allows me to reconnect with nature. Until I turned 19 and moved to London, I lived in Finland. Two years in the city, but most of my life in a small town surrounded by lakes and forests.

One of the things my parents taught me, and I now value the most, is the appreciation and special connection we have to nature. Something I am thoroughly reminded of during our two-week stay. We have seen the brightest northern lights I've ever seen, magical dusks and dawns, starry skies, and reindeers during our morning walk. 


Shirt, €350. Dress, €495. Collar, €245. All Patou. Earrings, €95. All Blues. Trousers, €425. By Hinders. Boots, €320. JiiJ. Gloves, Stylist’s Own. .

There really is no place like this. While this story, in its broadest sense, highlights gender-fluid styling, we also set out to put a spotlight on smaller emerging Nordic talents. We had beautiful handmade balaclavas from the Swedish brand Imaskopi. Sharp tailoring, romantic ruffles and lace garments by Finnish brands By Hinders and The FNRM, along with handwoven skirts, jackets and hats from Danish designer Nicklas Skovgaard. What is common for all of these brands, in addition to the distinctive designs, is their sustainability practices.

Earrings, €45. Wrap Shirt, €790. Both The Fnrm. Parka, €650. Lace Shirt, €650. Both Patou. . Photo: Lucas Ruska Martin

Gloves, Stylist’s Own. Lace Trousers, €950. The Fnrm. Boots, €320. JiiJ. Photo: Lucas Ruska Martin

Sustainability is at the core of these Nordic brands, whether it is using factory deadstock, focusing on an environmentally conscious production chain, producing only made-to-order pieces, or focusing on craftsmanship and creating one of a kind garments that will last for years to come with some love and care from the wearer. For example in this story, the blue Imaskopi balaclava is made from old t-shirts, the ruffled dress by The FNMR is created from deadstock and cutting waste materials, and the JiiJ boots that I am wearing throughout the story are made from vegan apple leather.

Earrings, €190. All Blues. White Shirt, €350. By Hinders. Hand-woven scrap top, €510. Nicklas Skovgaard. Trousers, €2,800. Maison Margiela.

Coat, €1,100.00. By Hinders. Gloves, €150. Boots, €750. Both Acne Studios.

All the brands that we included represent my idea of the future of a more conscious and inclusive fashion. I wanted to add some volume and layers to the styling; therefore, we included some looks from some of the industry's most influential brands challenging gender norms in fashion.

Coat, €5000. Bag, €2100. Both Gucci. Sweater, €229. Imaskopi. Shoes, price on request. Christian Louboutin.

Balaclava, €109. Imaskopi. Brooch, €1500. Gucci. Gloves, Stylist’s Own. Photo: Lucas Ruska Martin

For added drama, we went for Maison Margiela and Gucci. I combined these looks with the timeless elegance of Patou and some Scandi-cool from Acne Studios. In this editorial, I wanted to stay true to my own signature style but take it one step further. I mean, we have all stayed at home too much over these past two years, and I love any given opportunity to get really dressed up.

A Scandinavian styling secret for each look was 100 per cent merino wool thermal underwear and, of course, my personal winter essentials; woollen socks knitted by my grandma.

Coat, €1.280. Dress, €1.800. Both The FNRM. Rubber dipped waders, €2.950, by Maison Margiela. Gloves, Stylist’s Own. Photo: Lucas Ruska Martin

Black wool bonnet, price upon request. Gold-galvanised brass animal motif earrings,€520. Navy wool sweater, €850. All Maison Margiela. Photo: Lucas Ruska Martin

Spring in Lapland might be reminiscent of the icy world from Disney's Frozen. Yet, I can't relate to the catchy lyrics of "The cold never bothered me anyway". To be honest, "I can't feel my fingers" was the safe word for Lucas and me to run to the car to warm up.

Beyond the challenging and freezing weather conditions, we had to face the lack of daylight. If there is one thing Finland – and the Nordics in general – is known for, it is most probably the extreme contrasts between day and night. During summer, the sun doesn't set, while in winter, it seemingly doesn't rise.

Balaclava, €79. Imaskopi. White Shirt, €350. Jacket, €625. Both By Hinders. Messenger bag, €170. Acne Studios. Gloves, Stylist’s Own. Photo: Lucas Ruska Martin

Skirt, €740. Nicklas Skovgaard. Boots, €320. JiiJ. Photo: Lucas Ruska Martin

As a result, we had two to four hours a day to shoot. And as some of the locations were hard to access, there were definitely some stressful moments. But for us working as a creative duo, nothing beats the rewarding feeling of giving your everything and putting your heart and soul into what we do.

Knit top, €490. Trousers, €590. Scarf, €170. Necklace, price upon request. All Acne Studios. Necklace, price upon request. Maison Margiela. Earrings, €190. All Blues.

Photography by Lucas Ruska Martin
Styling by talent Mikko Puttonen
Beauty Using: Colekt and Chanel Beauty