A shifting status quo: The most inclusive moments during Copenhagen Fashion Week

This week's AW22 presentations at Copenhagen Fashion Week brought bold attitudes between the bundles and layers of wool and faux fur. Since SS22 presentations last August, the status quo has continued to shift, as it will continue to do — with or without you. Designers and fashion gazers alike are challenging today's industry from different angles, slowly tearing down the curtains that (unknowingly) keep others out.

The future of fashion is diverse and inclusive, so what are some of the ways that brands are conceptualising representation, in all its forms, both subtly and specifically? Here’s some observations on shows that portrayed an inviting brand identity this season:

As one of the first brands to present this season, Gestuz helped set the tone for the rest of the week. With deep shades of red and purple, they pulled us into an exciting Gestuz galaxy where time was no competitor to an active imagination. The show was fun to watch with a well-balanced mix of fabrics, styles, and, most importantly, racial representation. The striking collection came to life through the diverse models that walked the runway. Complexion, hair, body type, modesty and personality were a fashion-forward force to be reckoned with.

See the full Gestuz AW22 runway here

Kerne.milk's AW22 digital presentation for the 'Circus' collection, was a revelry of body and skin. Their Instagram slogan reads, "Kerne.milk is not something you drink; it's something you wear. But when you wear it, your body drinks it." Influenced by the arcs and bends of natural curves, this rang true in their collection. There was a relatable element of vulnerability in the models' movements that spoke to the brand's enthusiasm for minimalism in material and individuality in style.

See the full Kerne.milk AW22 collection here

Bringing energy to day one, Designers' Nest opened the door for the best Scandinavian design talents on deck. As a talent incubator, they put on a good show every year, always with something different and unexpected. Showcasing a diverse group of Nordic designers, such as Boram Yoo, Elina Heilanen, Bror August Vestbø, Leevi Ikäheumo, Mikaela Mårtensson, Asier Quintana, Frederik Taus, Filippa Agaton, Joona Rautiainen, Rinataro Iino, this show felt like a teaser if the ‘future of fashion’ was a movie. The landscape within the industry is shifting, no doubt. From the ground up, these ‘designers of tomorrow’ are certainly paving a new path, far less narrow-minded than before. They’re adding their own stories, experiences, and urgencies into the creative call for change.

See the full Designers' Nest AW22 collection here

Season after season, Stine Goya has always been about individuality and self-expression. Just one glance at their collection and you can feel the enthusiasm. Wednesday morning's show, 'Inside Out', was an exceptional representation of these values. It's impossible not to drool over their daring Danish fashion choices, and it's impossible to deny their thoughtful casting. Stine Goya makes it easy to recognise yourself in their diverse, modern and affirming brand identity. Stine Goya never fails to support the notion that we can indeed be whoever we want to be.

See the full Stine Goya AW22 collection here

In an industry where size and shape often dictate people's opinions on what or how much you should wear, A. Røge Hove delivered a compelling new narrative. As their first-ever presentation for the autumn/winter season, they made knitwear and the human body proud. Inclusivity is clearly important to A. Røge Hove's vision for design and expression for fabric. In 27 stunning looks, they showed an honest appreciation for differences in body type, skin tone, and a woman’s way of walking the talk.

See the full A. Røge Hove AW22 collection here

In their AW22 show entitled 'Original Memory, An Autobiography', Soulland continues to be an optimist for the future of fashion — and the people at every intersection. Their effortless and always-on choices for a more diverse industry have become a natural part of their productions. Their consistency is part of what makes the brand so admirable. This week, they brought the heat with a multi-textured range of neutral tones and the added gradient of warm colours. In this cultural celebration, Soulland showed us again that it's one thing to fill a space, and another to take up space with boldness and deservence.

See the full Soulland AW22 collection here

Though it was her first presentation at Copenhagen Fashion Week, Jade Cropper is well-known for being a beloved Stockholm gem — a true talent. Cropper quickly made a name for herself and crowned her signature look: a mix between versatile sexiness and timeless sophistication. Diversity is engrained in the many fabrics, shapes and cutouts that make Jade Cropper, Jade Cropper. This show was a highly anticipated experience for fashion week go-ers, and this week, she really delivered. The cast brought a revered edginess to the runway, with an empowering mix of masculine and feminine energy in each look. Jade Cropper actively chooses to think outside the box with such a refreshing, non-confining approach to fashion. She reminds us that confidence is everyone's to have.

See the full Jade Cropper AW22 collection here

As the week's final show, Ganni ended things on an uplifting note. In their digital presentation, 'Ganni Love Forever Ever', they invited us all to step into the world of the everyday #GanniGirl: a youthful and light-hearted world where everybody is invited, everybody is included, and everybody is expected to have a good time. Danish pop-artist Jada sang her heart out while Ganni’s latest collection presented itself through smile-inducing vignettes of friends living their best lives, in their personal styles. It was a creative way to present AW22 collection and it surely tugged at the heartstrings of anyone who speaks fashion as their love language.

See the full Ganni AW22 collection here