Canada’s only fashion statement gets a long-awaited (by me) resurgence
There’s a certain all-American sexiness to denim. Cowboys, James Dean, those Calvin Klein advertisements from the 1990s – the distinctly American ease of blue jeans is one of the few things in fashion that’s forever.
Still, it isn’t America that lays claim to the very specific notion of head-to-toe denim. No, that honour lies just north of the border. I’m speaking, of course, of the Canadian tuxedo: jean jacket (or shirt), and jeans. A look I’ve been sporting with a sort of unintentional national pride as it falls in (Julia Fox in Schiaparelli) and out (Britney Spears and Justin Timberlake in their then-maligned matching denim looks) of fashion.
Julia Fox in Schiaparelli. Photo: Jacopo Raule/Getty Images.
Legend has it that denim-on-denim was dubbed the 'Canadian tuxedo' back in 1951, when American crooner Bing Crosby was refused from an upscale Vancouver hotel for wearing a matching Levi's look rather than a three-piece suit. While that may be true, I suspect the moniker stuck around for a less-than-flattering reason.
As Canadians, we remain at the ready to receive light-hearted ridicule, particularly from our American frenemies to the south. Anyone who grew up watching South Park knows there’s a general tendency to laugh off Canadians as simple-minded, outrageously polite people. They joke that we live in igloos, that we’re friends with beavers. That we subside off a diet of poutine and maple syrup. That we’re the sort of folks that are so quaintly woodsy, that our version of a tuxedo is, in fact, a denim shirt and jeans.
Knwls ready-to-wear spring 2023.
Balenciaga couture fall 2023.
Givenchy ready-to-wear spring 2023.
Well, the joke is on everyone else, because there’s nothing cooler than a Canadian tuxedo. Though there are many well-dressed Canadians – I’m looking at you, Celine Dion – Canada isn’t necessarily viewed as a fashionable nation. For that reason, the Canadian tuxedo, our one aesthetic claim to fame, lies very near and dear to my heart, and nobody is happier to see its resurgence than me.
The beauty of the Canadian tux is its utter adaptability. A relaxed fit – oversized denim trousers and a generous mens shirt – is just as effective as slim jeans and a sharply-cut jean jacket (perhaps worn over a turtleneck, à la Raf Simons for Calvin Klein). The washes can match (my preference, honestly) or not. It can be sexy (Emily Ratajkowski’s Prada bralette) or androgynous (Bella Hadid’s oversized shirt and denim cargo pants). It can be reimagined with skirts and dresses, shorts and corsets.
Ganni spring/summer 2023.
Wood Wood spring/summer 2023.
(di)vision spring/summer 2023.
On the runway this season, denim-on-denim really got its due, popping up everywhere from Givenchy to KNWLS, Schiaparelli to Blumarine. It even made its way to couture, courtesy of Balenciaga. And on the home front, Ganni, Wood Wood and (di)vision all showed total denim looks at Copenhagen Fashion Week this season.
Yes, the Canadian tuxedo is having a moment, and even when it inevitably veers towards uncool once again, I will continue to wear mine with pride. Until then, we Canadians are happy to accept any and all fair-weather Canadian tuxedo fans. We’re polite like that.