Fashion / Society

These are the 6 menswear trends that are breaking gender stereotypes

By Mikko Puttonen

Photo: Alexander McQueen

Questioning gendered dress and subverting stereotypes, for the spring/summer 2022 season menswear brands were embracing femininity with non-traditional styles. Here, Mikko Puttonen explores the best gender fluid trends from the runways

When it comes to fashion, spring is a time for reinvention. For SS22, this metamorphic period saw traditional menswear embrace more gender-fluid references than ever before. Some old trends continued their reign, such as pearl jewellery, while new and exciting takes on tailoring with innovative materials made a splash. One thing is clear; we're moving away from the minimal towards the maximal and extravagant. Here I narrowed down my favourite six ways to spice up your life this spring.

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1

The evolution of pearls

It seems that men in pearls were just the beginning of a new era in male jewellery. Over the past few seasons, a string of pearls over a button-up merged into an androgynous styling affair endorsed by the likes of Harry Styles and A$AP Rocky. For spring/summer 2022, we saw more jewellery at the menswear shows than ever, from plastic camp beads and playful motifs to simple silver chains.

Valentino grounded its elevated aesthetic in chokers, pairing the classic string of pearls with colourful low-cut shirts showing a bit of chest. Dior Homme’s lavish dessert-inspired collection saw long beaded necklaces with a cacti motif. The cacti were also picked up in bedazzled brooches, the specific style of jewellery a new favourite among the sartorial savants in menswear. A fast favourite of Vogue Scandinavia was Jil Sander’s rendition of the brooch dripping in pearls. In addition to the runway, we saw heritage jewellery brands like Swarovski and Missoma launch gender-fluid collections.

Dior Homme spring ready-to-wear 2022 Menswear.

Valentino spring ready-to-wear 2022 Menswear.

Jil Sander spring 2022 Menswear.

2

Merging materials

In fashion, texture and tactility are key in creating a garment. In the traditional menswear wardrobe, crips cotton shirts and have wooden tailoring are staples, but for SS22, these menswear cuts are being reinvigorated, merging with new and unexpected materials. These garments are given new life, elevated beyond staples when made from flowy materials such as silk and satin. Loewe was one of the brands taking to the trend, presenting shirts and shorts with a glistening sheen. These materials lend themselves to material manipulation, like the romantic ruffles seen at Alexander McQueen and Comme Des Garçons.

Another material migrating onto the menswear runways is lace. The fragile fabric, often associated with femininity, lay the base for Saint Laurent's gothic spring/summer collection and Swedish designer Per Götesson's delicate creations.

Alexander McQueen spring 2022 Menswear.

Per Götesson spring 2022 Menswear.

Loewe spring 2022 Menswear.

3

Step up your game

High heels were originally created for men, and finally, we see them make a sartorial comeback. A shoe for anyone, no matter your gender identity, platform have been proposed to be the shoe of the spring/summer season – as presented by Saint Laurent. Speaking of the runways, we’ve seen heels in various heights make appearances – from cowboy boots to stacked loafer – in the new collections from Louboutin and Rick Owens.

If you are scared of heights but still want to step up your shoe game, another great option for your feet are a pair of Mary Jane’s, as presented by everyone from Margiela to Thom Browne.

Saint Laurent spring 2022 Menswear.

Louboutin capsule collection

Louboutin as worn by Mikko Puttonen. Photo: Lukas Ruska Martin

Thom Browne spring ready-to-wear 2022 Menswear.

4

Show some skin

Sex positivity and showing a little bit of skin were statements that many designers such as Nihl, Ludovic de Saint Sernin, GMBH and Jordanluca showed for spring/summer.

Crop tops were a keen favourite in the runways, reminiscent of our favourite Spice Girl era. The chopped off style was seen at Fendi, Alled-Martinez, Han Kjøbenhavn and Lazoschmidl, just to name a few. Alternatively wrap yourself in a bandage top as Stefan Cooke, Palomo Spain, and Per Götesson showed. Or cinch in your waist while sporting a corset, like at Wooyoungmi, Palomo Spain and Namacheko, a trend that you can already see all over TikTok.

Wooyoungmi spring ready-to-wear 2022 Menswear.

Fendi spring 2022 Menswear.

Stefan Cook spring 2022 Menswear.

5

Purses trumps pockets

It was only towards the end of the 19th century that handbags as we know them first came into being. The first ones were derived from prettily embroidered pouches for carrying essentials. The handbags became more popular as women were allowed to manage their own finances, carrying cash and keys alongside their trinkets. For a long time men were mystified by the purse, but today the accessory has bridged the gender gap. Iconic miniature It-bags – like Jacquemus' Chiquito bag – have been sported by sartorially savvy individuals regardless of gender for the last couple of seasons.

On the runways for spring/summer 2022 we see male models lean into models ranging from minimalist to retro. Everyone from GmbH to JW Andersson and Stefan Cooke; Acne Studios to Gucci were embracing the handbags. We will, without a doubt, continue to witness comebacks of classics such as Fendi Baguette and Gucci Jackie worn by all genders.

Gucci spring ready-to-wear 2022 Menswear.

JW Anderson spring 2022 Menswear.

GmbH spring 2022 Menswear.

6

Sequin and sparkle

Why go for the ordinary when there is extra-ordinary? Embracing the disco-ball aesthetic for spring/summer 22, we look mainly to the brands known for subverting gender. At Han Kjøbenhavn and Lazosmidl, the sparkle of choice was sequins, as seen on wide slung trousers and tank tops. Palomo Spain caught silver and metallics in their lineup, while Celine presented reflective garments from bedazzled blazers to chainmail tops. Yet, why limit yourself to clothes? Why not go further by adding metallics, glitter and rhinestones in the form of makeup? It is, after all, time to dazzle this spring according to the fashion set.

Han Kjøbenhavn spring/summer 2022 menswear. Photo: Courtesy of Han Kjøbenhavn

Palomo Spain spring 2022 menswear.

Celine spring 2022 menswear.