The status quo has begun to change – we look back at the most diverse moments from the Danish capital
Another year, another week-long display of Scandinavian fashion in the books of our regional history. This year's Copenhagen Fashion Week, showcasing Spring/Summer 23 collections, was booming. With emerging designers in the lineup, new models on the runway, and international representation in the streets and seats, each day brought highly-anticipated excitement and exhilaration. With much bigger productions than other years, it felt like the first "pre-pandemic" fashion week in a long time, with a noticeable surge in the energy amidst the city’s heat wave.
Through all the changes we've seen our world go through over the past two years, we've also seen pop culture be challenged, unfolded and directly affected – fashion is no different. The creativity of producing a standout experience for people at various junctions of the same industry is no small feat.
Still, it is a noticeable choice that many of the week's spectators paid close and personal attention to. Some of the questions on my mind were: Are designers being moved by our changing society, or are they stagnant in their old ways of showcasing their defined beauty? Are people casting with intention or just simply tokenizing? Is intersectional inclusivity – across race, ethnicity, gender, sexuality, body type and age – at the forefront of brands' creative processes, or are they just filling in a box tick?
Authentic runway moments certainly stand out in a crowd – here are four brands that support the changing narrative of inclusivity in Scandinavian Fashion with a truly original approach.
Aeron Studios (Day one)
As their debut show at Copenhagen Fashion Week, the Budapest-based brand Aeron Studios received lots of ‘oohs’ and ‘aahs’ from viewers at nearly every corner a model turned. With a collection of muted tones elegantly draped across an incredible cast of diverse faces, there was a powerful sense of equilibrium in the air – Eastern and Western European representation at its finest.
With the sun shining down in the picturesque Fritz Hansen Pavillion, situated in the courtyard of Designmuseum Denmark, Aeron Studios made it clear that though they might be newbies to the week’s proceedings, they are fully committed to prioritising inclusivity in how they create and inspire their brand.
Rabels Saloner (Day two)
The way that Scandinavian brands have approached inclusivity in the past has often meant size diversity has felt a little forgotten and overlooked – it is undoubtedly a work in progress. But Rabens Saloner got it right, with a cast many described as a showcase of ‘normal bodies,’ which, in stark contrast to many other brands, was a breath of fresh air.
With guests seated along a peak summery runway set, perched under pastel pink umbrellas in the outskirts of town giving it the feel of a summer holiday, the show felt unique before it had even kicked off. Each look gave off an element of cohesiveness that was effortlessly sustained by the range in body types of the models rocking each look. Unforced is the first word that came to mind.
Soulland (Day two)
As one of only a few (recognised) Black-led fashion brands in Scandinavia, Soulland nails it on the head season after season with consistent representation backstage and on the runway. This year's show gave off "all encompassing inclusivity," meaning that every person in the audience could pretty much recognise themselves in someone on the runway – an almost alien concept in the history of runway shows in the past. Inclusion is certainly an ingrained part of Soulland's design and storytelling process and that was so evident in their show.
Ganni (Day 3)
As one of Denmark's most internationally recognized brands, Ganni continues to present itself as the everyday people's brand. As one of the final shows of the week, Ganni paid tribute to the city of Copenhagen and the vibrant community that makes it so unique. Titled ‘JOYRIDE,’ they pulled through, fun was at the forefront of this incredible show.
After recently announcing the soon-to-come launch of their extended sizing collection and numerous initiatives in allyship with Black Lives Matter and LGBTQIA+communities through the years, Ganni embraces humanness in all its shades, shapes, sexualities, and identities in a truly masterful way. Show goers were clapping, cheering, and dancing with the cast from start to finish. The joy of the ride was abundant. With local onlookers watching the show from their bobbing boats along the pier – the experience felt unifying, memorable and much needed.
