How Danish label Heliot Emil is changing the game with 3D threads

Heliot Emil is an early adopter. Using material inventions, like its popular “liquid metal” trousers, and technological innovations, the Danish brand embodies a low-key futurism. Ever since its launch in 2016 by brothers Julius and Victor Juul, Heliot Emil has refused to adhere to any standards set by the fashion industry.

This is especially true of its foray into 3D printing. During Heliot Emil’s latest show – the brand’s debut on the Paris runways – a fragile, no-waste knit and sturdy boots were born of a printer.

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“There’s so much potential in 3D printing,” Julius muses. “You can do everything, from small figurines to whole houses. Even in medicine, manufacturing artificial bones to replace broken ones. It has a huge impact on how we see future manufacturing.” As for fashion, Julius says that adopting this new process could help prevent excess waste during production. “When you make garments, you cut out patterns, and no matter how careful you are, there will always be waste. Whereas a 3D printer only prints what you need. And even if something goes wrong, you can just put it in the printer again and reprint it.”

3D printing a dress is a delicate art. The design process happens digitally, the pattern pieces formed in specialised programs. Next, Thermoplastic Polyurethane (TPU) is spun into layers, printing in different directions from the bottom up, creating a stretchy honeycomb pattern. “It flows surprisingly nicely,” says Julius.

While 3D printing is still in its infancy when it comes to fashion, Julius has hopes that the industry will see its potential. “The whole concept is amazing, of course, but we’re still far away from printing fabrics that feel like silk or cotton,” he says. “But we want to push the industry in that direction, make other people try it.”

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It isn’t the only way Heliot Emil is seeking to shake things up. The Danish government recently gave the brand a grant to explore how to make the production chain more transparent. “We want to cover everything from where the garment came from to how to properly take care of it using blockchain technology,” Julius says, adding the aim is to share these developments with other designers to make a better, more sustainable industry. “It would be pointless if we were the only ones doing it.”