Dubbed the 'Miu Miu of Scandinavia', we dive into the feminine frills of Custommade to mark the brand's 20th anniversary as a master of maximalism
There’s nothing minimal about the Danish brand Custommade. Referred to, by some, as the ‘Miu Miu of Scandinavia’, the frills, embroidery and voluminous silhouettes have helped solidify Copenhagen’s unique brand of chromatic colour schemes and playful prints. With its signature bow-clad shoes, big buttons and bell-shaped sleeves, the brand's boundless nature rids itself of Scandinavian sensibilities in lieu of joyful maximalism.
Founded in 2002 by Christian Dam, the Custommade we know today is very different from the one launched 20 years ago. The brand originally stemmed from Dam's idea of using leftover fabric from Italian fashion brands to “create a unique brand", offering limited editions of numbered pieces.
Christian Dam . Photo: Custommade
Anne Rasmussen . Photo: Custommade
In 2006, the original idea expanded beyond these exclusive runs when Anne Rasmussen stepped into the role of designer at Custommade. “The first collection I made was very simple and didn’t contain a lot of styles. At that time, the collection had more of a 'used' look which was the big theme in the ’00s,” says Rasmussen. As for the best seller in that collection, it was “probably a mini washed leather jacket with small pockets, push buttons and three-quarter sleeves,” the designer reminisces.
Since that first collection, “much water has passed under the bridge”, according to Rasmussen. “I have experienced many great moments during the last 20 years with my business,” says Dam. The most significant moment among them? “Meeting Anne 16 years ago and changing into a design-driven brand.”
Nowhere near what one would consider classically Nordic, minimal and androgynous, Custommade’s design-driven direction has since breathed maximalism, according to Rasmussen. “The collections are decorated, feminine and full of details, both big and small,” she says. All while keeping a modern feeling. “They’re all pieces I want to have in my closet,” the designer concluded.
The two dresses from the celebratory 20th anniversary 'By Numbers' capsule. Photo: Custommade
And that’s the essence of Rasmussen’s design process. She is busy “creating all styles from the heart," a feat that results in each piece of design holding a significant meaning to the designer. “I believe in creating clothing that is well made so that each piece can last and be an investment that you don’t just throw out.”
“I always start my design process with the colour palette,” she continues. After that, she chooses the qualities and fabrics and at last, she sketches and defines all the different styles. “I have, of course, built up a big design library where I can find inspiration, but I love the freedom to start fresh every season to design exactly what I feel like.” But no place is as inspirational to Rasmusen as Paris, “It is my favourite city, and I visit twice a year. It is indispensable.”
Accolades followed once Rasmussen joined the brand, with Custommade receiving an award for its design in 2014 and officially showing at Copenhagen Fashion Week for the first time in 2019. But Covid put a wrench in things. “It was really a struggle to manage a design-driven business during a time where most people didn’t dress up to go out meeting other people,” says Dam. Even so, Custommade stayed true to its occasion wear ethos and became stronger for it. “We kept making fashion items and high heels when most brands focused on homeware, selling joggers, et cetera.”
The Custommade woman is "sparkling and effortlessly fabulous". Photo: Custommade
The brand's signature is the feminine bow, often found on both ready-to-wear and shoes. Photo: Custommade
Today, as Custommade celebrates its 20th anniversary, its unique aesthetics are more defined than ever. The Custommade woman is someone that Dam and Rasmussen know by heart. “Her personality is sparkling and effortlessly fabulous,” says Dam. She has a controlled nonchalance, with a style that expresses freedom and independence.
While she doesn’t use the Miu Miu comparison herself, Rasmusen concedes that there are some similarities in “the charming girly atmosphere and the preppy love story”. To mark the last two decades, Custommade releases a celebratory ‘By Numbers’ capsule of four limited edition pieces – two dresses and two pairs of shoes – which perfectly encapsulates these sartorial signatures. Furthermore, Custommade pays homage to its origin by numbering the items with only 100 pieces available in each style.
Matching stilettos to dance-floor friendly dresses, every stitch of the capsule collection has a celebratory spirit. “And, of course, the big embroideries and the extravagant handmade details,” Rasmusen says. “Custommade is everyday luxury with a twinkle in the eye.” A twinkle that will no doubt keep sparkling for another 20 years.